Walking the Kumano Kodo in the Rain

June has brought the rainy season. With so many wet days, the laundry just won’t dry… I sound like a housewife saying this, but when running a guesthouse, laundry and airing out the bedding are important daily tasks, so I can’t help but be sensitive to the weather.

Even so, many people still walk the Kumano Kodo. At first, I thought walking in the rain or mist must be tough… but then I heard people say, “The scenery in the rain and mist is beautiful!” Such positive words inspired me to try walking it myself.

This time, I took on the “Ogumotori-goe” route, which leads from Koguchi to Nachi Taisha. In the forest, the canopy of leaves shields you, so a light rain doesn’t bother you much. In fact, the mist-filled woods feel so enchanting, as if you’ve wandered into another world. Thanks to the rain washing dust from the air, the scenery becomes remarkably clear. Plants, stones, and even moss shine in vivid colors when wet with rain.

Along the way, I was caught in a heavy downpour. Even with a windbreaker on, I was soaked with sweat underneath. Still, I saw a few people walking in just T-shirts and shorts. I couldn’t help but think—if you’re going to get wet anyway, maybe that’s actually more comfortable… (That said, proper protection against the cold, slippery trails, and insects is definitely important!)

There were also unique joys to be found in the rainy season. Nachi Waterfall had an increased flow, making it incredibly powerful—its sheer force of nature was truly moving. And the best part after finishing the walk was the reward of a black sugar candy soft-serve ice cream! Its gentle sweetness spread through my tired body.

This time, I walked together with my daughter. In fact, this was the only day we had the chance to walk together, so we had no choice but to go, rain or not. In the end, it turned out to be a wonderful experience. The Kumano Kodo on a rainy day was far more captivating than I had imagined.

The renovation work on Guesthouse COZY is underway, and the craftsmen are working hard despite the damp, humid rainy season.

Thank you very much.

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