Chikatsuyu is home to Chikano Shrine, a shrine that has long been cherished by the local community.
The other day, I joined the regular community cleanup of this shrine. It is a place that local people have lovingly cared for and protected for generations.
Every autumn, a traditional lion dance is dedicated here during the annual festival. People come to pray for the health and happiness of their families and to give thanks for the peace and blessings of everyday life. For many local residents, the shrine remains an important spiritual home and a source of comfort.
You will not find it featured prominently in guidebooks, but it is one of my favorite places in Chikatsuyu. Surrounded by beautiful scenery, it offers a glimpse into the history, culture, and daily life of this region. It is a place where the true spirit of the local community can still be felt.
With no signs to guide you, it is easy to miss, but it is well worth a visit.
Chikano Shrine
Komainu (guardian lion-dog statues)
There is something about cleaning a shrine like this that naturally brings a sense of peace and calm to the heart.
Fewer than ten people took part in the cleanup that day, and most of them were elderly members of the community.
“In the old days, many more people would come together. Once the cleaning was done, everyone would stay, share food and drinks, and enjoy a gathering together.”
Everyone spoke fondly of the past. People in this town genuinely love festivals, good company, and lively gatherings.
In ancient times, during the imperial pilgrimages to Kumano made by retired emperors, Chikatsuyu was said to be the place where they stayed on the night before arriving at Kumano Hongu Taisha. Because of this, festive events similar to eve-of-arrival celebrations were often held here. Perhaps that history still lives on today in the spirit and atmosphere of this community.
As we worked, something caught my attention. June is the season when the weather becomes warmer and the rains increase, making it a constant battle against weeds. Yet, to my surprise, there were remarkably few weeds growing within the shrine grounds. I found myself wondering why such a peaceful and well-kept place remained so free of them despite the season.
“As I looked around, I found myself wondering, ‘Could it be that the gods are protecting these sacred grounds?’ So I asked about it.”
“ ‘Because we use weed killer,’ came the simple reply.”
Well, that explained it. It seemed that the weed killer was doing the hard work before the gods had a chance.
On the other hand, many of the local people expressed concern about the declining number of volunteers taking part in the shrine clean-up. Like many rural areas in Japan, this community is facing depopulation and an aging population, with fewer young people remaining in the area. It also seems that visiting shrines is no longer as familiar a custom for younger generations as it once was. “There are about ten different deities enshrined in this town,” one person told me. Kumano is home to countless gods and sacred places. Nature does not always bend to human wishes. At times it brings the threat of natural disasters; at other times it provides abundant blessings and offers us comfort and healing. Living here in the deep forests of Kumano, I often feel that we humans are simply one small part of nature itself. To cherish nature and to respect it. And to honor the gods who govern that nature. To me, those two things seem inseparable. As we finished the clean-up and prepared to leave, someone called out to us: “You’re the ones who will carry this on. We’re counting on you.” I felt that those words carried a heartfelt wish—that the culture, traditions, and faith of this community would be passed on to the next generation.
The rainy season is perhaps the most vibrant time of year on the Kumano Kodo, when the forests overflow with life and energy.
Fed by the season's abundant rainfall, the trees and wildflowers burst into growth, cloaking the forest in vivid green. Walking through the woods, you can feel nature's powerful life force in every direction.
And no flower captures the beauty of this season quite like the hydrangea.
The vivid hydrangeas blooming amid the lush green forest offer one of the most beautiful sights of the Kumano Kodo during the rainy season.
Enjoy the scenery that only rainy days can offer, and discover the unique beauty of the Kumano Kodo during this vibrant season.
