It’s the peak spring season. Many hikers come to the Kumano Kodo, each enjoying the walk in their own way. The fresh greenery is beautiful, and the weather is comfortably mild—neither too hot nor too cold. Walking through the clear air, listening to the birds sing… seeing this, you can’t help but feel, “I want to walk it too.”
So, I made the most of a short break and walked the trail myself.
This time, I chose the Shiomi-toge Pass route (from Shimomisu to Takijiri-oji).
Shiomi-toge Pass Route Map (Shimomisu to Nozokibashi)
Many hikers start from Takijiri-oji and make their way toward Kumano Hongu Taisha.
Some continue even further, heading to Kumano Nachi Taisha and Kumano Hayatama Taisha.
This time, I decided to try a route I had long wanted to walk—just before Takijiri-oji.
Despite it being such a beautiful season, I didn’t encounter a single hiker that day.
Walking alone along the quiet mountain trail, I felt a sense of luxury—as if I had the entire scenery all to myself.
The main drawback of this route is that access to the starting point in Shimomisu is not very convenient.
However, since I live locally and know the area well, I was able to reach the starting point smoothly by taking a lesser-known route.
For a while after setting off, the trail passes through small villages where people still live today. Traces of the past remain here and there, giving the area a nostalgic atmosphere. Hearing neighbors chatting with each other, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of warmth and ease.
Along the way, I found myself stopping at Shuren Shrine.
A small, quiet shrine stands here, blending gently into both the town and the surrounding nature.
The grounds are carefully maintained, and you can feel how deeply it is still cherished by the local community.
Seeing the towering camphor tree, likely several hundred years old, and the weathered stone guardian lion-dogs, I could feel the passage of time.
There, the enduring connection between the community and its people—passed down through generations—was quietly alive.
A sumo ring-like space within the shrine grounds was also striking, sparking my imagination about whether sumo is still performed there as part of Shinto rituals.
Small shrines like this are rarely featured in guidebooks or on websites, but I felt they are one of the truly meaningful sights you can encounter along the journey.
From Nagao-zaka to Shiomi Pass, the quiet bamboo groves swaying in the wind are especially memorable.
In addition, the fresh green leaves and seasonal flowers—unique to this time of year—add vibrant color, and simply walking along the trail makes your heart feel lighter.
The weather was also on my side that day, and from the pass I was able to see the ocean.
Being able to take in both the mountains and the sea at once is one of the unique charms of this route.
The distance I walked this time was about 14 km. There were few steep climbs, and overall it was a comfortable and enjoyable walk.
While the lively and popular routes have their own appeal, this day reminded me that walking a quiet trail at my own pace is also one of the deeper pleasures of the Kumano Kodo.
