In mid-September, when the summer heat had finally begun to ease, I walked the “Chikatsuyu–Akagigoe–Yunomine” course on the Nakahechi route of the Kumano Kodo.
At this time of year, the forest is often shrouded in mist in the morning, which gradually clears as the sunlight filters through—creating a magical and dreamlike scene. At 7 a.m., I set off into the mist. In the first half of the walk, with plenty of energy and excitement, I took my time to enjoy the scenery, listening closely to the sounds of nature as I walked at a steady, comfortable pace.
The sounds change from place to place. In areas where cicadas were singing, I was reminded of the intense heat of summer, while the chirping of birds soothed my heart, and the murmuring of streams brought a sense of coolness. Being surrounded by these sounds is one of the greatest joys of walking through the forest.
Along the way, I met other travelers walking the Kumano Kodo and exchanged friendly greetings. Seeing them enjoying the forest despite their fatigue was truly uplifting. At one point, there was a spot where an incredibly cool breeze passed through, and a hiker resting there laughed, saying, “It’s like natural air conditioning!” That was exactly right—the air felt wonderfully fresh and pure.
This was my first time taking on the Akagigoe Route. After crossing Mikoshi Pass, there’s a fork in the trail just before Inohana Oji. Most hikers continue toward Hosshinmon Oji on their way to Kumano Hongu Taisha, so few people take the Akagigoe path that leads to Yunomine. As a result, it was a very quiet and peaceful trail. Once I passed through the forest road, the path followed a ridgeline, and on this clear day, I could see the mountain ranges of the Kii Peninsula stretching east to west. The combination of the refreshing ridge walk and the breathtaking panorama made me stop in my tracks just to take it all in.
However, in the latter half of the hike, my energy was completely drained, and I no longer had the luxury to enjoy the scenery — I could only stare at the ground three meters ahead and take one step at a time. Still, I kept moving forward, and at last, I finally arrived at Yunomine Onsen!
A signpost pointing toward Yunomine, dating back to Ansei 2 (1855).
I took off my sweat-soaked clothes and headed straight to the public hot spring. The moment I sank into the water, a deep sigh escaped me — a mix of pure comfort and a sense of accomplishment that enveloped my whole body. The joy of completing the hike, the pleasant fatigue, and the healing warmth of the Yunomine hot spring — it was truly a moment that revived both body and soul.
